make-believe: the french laundry

 
One of my favorite Christmas gifts is a cookbook from my chef-hero of the moment, Thomas Keller. (The admiration was inspired by our four-hour meal at his restaurant Bouchon during our trip last fall to Vegas. Take a look at the charming decor below...)

To be completely honest, The French Laundry is more coffee table book than cookbook. It's devoted to the story, operation, and unapologetic perfectionism of the famed California restaurant. It has a lot of pictures and a few recipes, and the tiny text is filled with nuggest about perfect cooking technique.  It's a book to study and admire, learn from, and to achieve in small (modified) doses.  (Thanks, Mama C!)

My first Laundry project was the salmon tartare. It's all about fresh fish and attention to detail, but truly easy to do-- assuming, of course, that you skip the impossible "cornets" (like mini ice cream cones used to serve the salmon). You can see how someone braver than I made the cornets here: http://carolcookskeller.blogspot.com/2008/10/cornets-salmon-tartare-with-sweet-red.html.

I skipped them and went straight for the crostini alternative suggested by the chef himself.  No harm done.

I did not skip the sweet onion creme fraiche served along with it, and thank goodness! They were delicious together.

Here's everything you need to know to recreate this yummy appetizer.  (I recommend doubling it!)


Salmon Tartare (makes about 3/4 cup)

4 oz best quality salmon fillet, skin and any pin bones removed and very finely minced
3/4t olive oil
3/4t lemon oil (for me, this was a little more olive oil with lemon zest and a splash of lemon juice)
1 1/2t finely minced chives
1 1/2t finely minced shallots
1/2t kosher salt
Small pinch of white pepper

With a sharp knife, finely mince the salmon fillet (do not use a food processor, as it would damage the texture of the fish) and place it in a small bowl.  Stir in the remaining ingredients and taste for seasoning.  Cover the bowl and refrigerate the tartare for at least 30 minutes, or up to 12 hours. 

Sweet Red Onion Creme Fraiche

1T finely minced red onion
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/4t kosher salt
Pinch white pepper

Place the red onions in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds.  Dry them on paper towels.  In a small metal bowl, whisk the creme fraiche for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until it holds peaks when you lift the whisk.  Fold in the chopped onions and season to taste with the salt and white pepper.  Transfer the onion cream to a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve or for up to 6 hours.

One important modification you'll see above: I didn't go to the trouble to make lemon oil, as Thomas Keller would, so a little lemon zest and a splash of lemon juice with olive oil played the part for me. So you can say this recipe was inspired by The French Laundry for the less exacting among us.